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July 2012
Leaving Ellendale Pool this morning we visited another old cycle touring campsite and then ended up in Fitzroy Crossing. When we rode through here in 2003 it was a very dirty and had the appeal of a rubbish dump, but now.....it was all cleaned up! A new service station and new supermarket (courtesy of the last flood), green lawns and not the rubbish strewn town we remembered, and it was a very pleasant change.
Stopping at the tourist information center we were shocked to find that they charged for water, and it was 30c per litre! But, I guess it is a sign of the times and we later found out that Halls Creek also charge for their water.
Leaving Fitzroy we crossed the single lane bridges as you head out of town and past the Fitzroy River Lodge Caravan Park where we stayed last time through. We were heading for a rest area by the name of Nyumban Cliffs. The rest area is high on a plateau with great views, but it also catches the wind, but as we were coasting along we spied a nice little spot off the side of the road near Christmas Creek Station. Investigation of the spot proved fortunate because there was a nice flat spot at the top of a drop off into a large waterhole and tree filled creek bed, fed by a creek from under the road when it is flowing. The water was clear and deep and looked like it would be a popular spot for those who know it is there. This'll do us for the night.
Our spot was nice and quiet except for 3 men who came in for a look and a break in their drive during the afternoon, and the next morning we drove onto Nyumban Cliff Rest Area to have breakfast with a view. On arrival we found a dozen campers there, including Patrick and Val. The Wind was up as expected and was strong enough to move AJ around a bit while we enjoyed the view over breakfast. It also meant we had a headwind for today's trip.
Mary Pool is a very popular rest area and it was fairly full when we arrived, and it continued to fill up as the day progressed and a rough count of 75 vehicles the next morning was achieved. The river was down and there was more sand than water, so many people were wandering up and down the river looking for fire wood ready for this evenings happy hour.
The old road causeway across to Mary Pool RA
We did a tour of the site and then found Patrick and Val parked in a nice sunny spot just across the track from the shad river front sites. Now, I know Patrick picks a good spot for his solar set up and so we parked in front of them in a nice sunny spot also, and as it turned out we had the best spot for sun all day.
Happy Hour was a sunny spot between Patrick's and our place with a number of those around us joining in for a great time and interesting discussions, swapping of ideas and campsite locations.
Day 2 at Mary Pool was a quiet affair which started with the obligatory viewing of those on the move followed by small tasks being carried out as the place filled up yet again. Happy hour was at our place again and it also gave us the chance to catch up with Toni and Murray who we had met at Indee Station.
Day 3 saw the wind drop a little and that was a god signal to hit the road again, this time onto Halls Creek. To get there we traveled through more flat grasslands, much of which had been burnt off. Arriving in Halls Creek we contacted a lady where we were able to fill our water tanks for free rather than paying the tourist information centre. Mind you, the word from other travelers is that you are able to tell the tourist information centre you only want 10 litre's which you pay for, and then fill up with 1000, because they do not monitor it.
With our tanks topped up Joanne did some shopping at the supermarket, butcher and bakery before we drove onto the Ord River Rest area to camp. We arrived however to a different rest area than we remembered from when we rode thought. Confused by the bridge that is now across the river. What we eventually realised was that when we rode through (from the other direction) we crossed the causeway because the bridge was not open until after we came through, and the also explained why the rest area was on the wrong side of the road to our memory. As it turned out we camped at the exact same spot as we did back on 28 June 2003!
A pleasant enough campsite which also gave us the chance to catch up with our friends Kim, Carolyn and Diesel the dog. They pulled in around 1pm and we spent the rest of the day and evening catching up on our respective travels, and planning the trip ahead a little.
The old Ord River Causeway as it is today, and our campsite with Kim and Carolyn (the same spot we had when we cycled)
So all caught up the next day we moved onto the Spring Creek Rest Area which we had been told about by other travelers. We arrived to find a flat dusty area at the top and a nice grassed, shady area down by the creek. We managed to get ourselves a god spot down the bottom and began investigating the area. The creek is mainly dry upstream but just up from our campsite is a natural spring and it provides water down to the bridge.
The spring that feeds the river and looking back upstream from under the bridge. Campsite is to the right where the people are.
By the time we got back from our exploration the camp had filled up to overflowing and we were surrounded by other campers. People had packed in so tight that some had even blocked the entrance to the caravans of those who had left their rig there and gone into the Bungle Bungles which the track into is just 200m further up the highway. We had been told the water here was also very drinkable and it was, so many people including us topped up our tanks.
We also had a visit from the Department of Environment and Conservation and they were interested in finding out if any of us had been charged or had paid the caravan park any money to camp here. Apparently the caravan park has been telling people they can camp here but it will cost them $25 for the night. Most people said they had not paid or been told that but promised to pass the word around and to report it if did happen.
We had decided to move on the next day and were part of the morning exodus. Passing through some wonderful range area, past dry creeks and plenty of boab's we eventually arrived at Turkey Creek (Warmun). Joanne and I had camped here before and had taken a helicopter flight out over the Bungle Bungles from here back in 2003 (click here to view). This time however we had a look around the roadhouse and dropped into the local aboriginal community to see the art gallery (closed) before we headed out of town, eventually stopping at the Dunham River Rest Area.
Dunham River Rest Area sits as the name suggests next to the Dunham River, the only problem though is getting to the river. Talk about bush bashing! The four of us decided to find the track down to the river which was easier said than done. After finding a hidden tribe and Elvis, we eventually got down to the water and the effort was not really worth the reward, and we split up to explore on our own.
On her way back to our camp Joanne decided to take a vehicle track opposite the rest area entrance and that was when she found the Boab campsite. On her arrival back at our camp she informed of her find so Kim and I took a quick walk to check it out and what a find she had made! On our return a hasty pack up was made (read everything just thrown in and on the floor) and we drove off to claim our new site.
Driving down the bulldusty track and mowing down the dry grass in the middle of the wheel marks we eventually arrived at the spot and quickly set up. The river was now an easy 100m away and visible from our camp and it was a chance to try our luck at fishing. Checking out the area we could see the fish swimming along near the bank, but the back was a fair drop down from the top so it would be interesting.
We made it down to the water and Kim caught a fish and then lost a large one, and that was the end of our fishing luck. We kept trying various spots and ended up just feeing the turtles and our frustration, so it was a good job Joanne and Carolyn had dinner ready.
Day 2 at the Boab camp was fairly quiet until Carolyn saw a snake and then we noticed that we had ash falling on us. No fire was visible for a while and then we saw the smoke off in the distance. Shortly after that we noticed that the smoke was getting bigger and bigger so, being surrounded by very dry, long grass and on the downwind side of the fire, we packed up and drove back over to the official rest area for the night while the fire continued to burn.
It turned out that the fire was part of the controlled burn along the roadside and we could see that the next day as we drove on towards Wyndham. Stopping to dump the toilet at the Cockburn Rest Area we left the highway and made our way towards Wyndham where Joanne and I would be visiting her niece.
Along the way we stopped at The Grotto, a pool of water that sits at the bottom of a gorge and which is fed by what would be a huge waterfall during the wet season. We climbed down the 140 odd steps cut into the rockface and eventually arrived at the waters edge. The cool of the water and the shade provided by the gorge walls was a great relief from the heat of the day.
The Grotto
Arriving in Wyndham we took the very steep and winding road up to the 5 rivers look out for some very nice views over old and new Wyndham towns, the rivers and the Cockburn Ranges in the background.
View from 5 Rivers Lookout. Old Wyndham Town is at the base of the hill on the left.
5 Rivers Lookout. New Wyndham Town on left, old on bottom right.
Cockburn Ranges (where the movie Australia was filmed) in the background.
So after a look over town we drove out to old Wyndham town for a look before arriving at our new home (for a little while). Kim and Carolyn topped up their water and headed off to explore some more. Joanne and I will be stopping in Wyndham for a little while shortly but for the moment we are just visiting for a few days. When we return we will be helping her niece. at Marlgu Village which is an aged care facility run by Frontier Services and the Uniting Church and where Bronwyn is the manager.
A few days after we arrived in Wyndham we took off again to catch up with Kim and Carolyn at the Zebra Rock Mine and Campground which is just over the border in the NT and near Lake Argyle.
Zebra Rock is managed by its owners Kim and Ruth. It is a very pleasant campground and the owners very welcoming, so welcoming in fact that they consider the place belongs to those who are camped there! Complimentary tea and coffee and scones (donation) at any time of the day, $10 fish and chips at any time, free firewood delivered to your campsite every night, free Zebra Rock mine tours, rocks and jewelry for sale, fishing and 4 hour sunset cruises (half the price of those at Lake Argyle), cheap camping and very good company all great reasons for going to this place. We don't often recommend places but we do in this case.
Part of the sunset cruise is nibbles and drinks at a secret spot and where the local eagles get a feed as well.
There are plenty of photo opportunities as the 4 hour cruise goes on such as the crocs and these Pelicans at sunset.
and with sunset views like this, the camera sure gets a work out.
We spent a very pleasant few days at the Zebra Rock Mine but it was time to start the trip back to Wyndham. Saying good bye to Kim, Carolyn and Diesel and then new friends Helen and Brian we made our way to the Saddle Creek Rest Area for a night.
The site filled up very quickly and a count of the campers came to 38! Thankfully we had a great spot which gave us plenty of room to site out under the awning. We had been told that this rest area was a good one for photos because the rock face behind it catches the sunset nicely and the ranges across the front catch the sunrise nicely as well. It was nice but...
While we were there we were visited by a small gathering of Double Barred Finch's who were getting the seeds etc from among the dry grass. They came very close and that sure helped the photography. 
The next day it was back into WA where we took the opportunity to view Argyle itself, the Lake and the Durack Homestead which was relocated just before the lake flooded its original location.
The homestead was removed from its original site just as the flood waters were arriving and much of it is now at the bottom of the lake which is a pity.
The current building has a new roof and the rooms contain a few artifacts and plenty of photos and reading material on a family who were undoubtedly one of the early pioneers and who helped shape the cattle industry and this area. Read more by obtaining a copy of "Kings in Grass Castles" by Mary Durack.
Leaving the Durack homestead we made our way back to the highway where we spotted a dingo. A quick stop back in Kununnura where we stopped for the night at in the grounds of the Uniting Church where we met Bruce, a friend of Bronwyn's.
A peaceful night in town and now the chance to look around the area before we head back to Wyndham. First stop was the Ivanhoe Crossing which was the original entrance to town. The crossing was closed due to high river flow so we were unable to drive across, but it didn't stop some people wading in to dodge the crocs and fish!
On from the crossing we took in a tour of the Sandalwood Factory and then a look at the Mirima National Park in town which is often called the mini Bungle Bungles. Shopping followed before we found our way out to a gravel pit for the night and then onto Wyndham.
We set up in the carpark at Marlgu and then the weekend began with a 12 return walk up to the 5 Rivers Lookout and then on Sunday we had an invite to go fishing with Bronwyn and some locals, so off we went. Driving across the dry lake bed was a good short cut to the fishing spot on the King River. The fish were not biting and so a fire was built and Kangaroo Tail was cooked for lunch. The tail is quite boney and a bit like oxtail, but when you do get a knuckle with some meat on it the meat is very nice.
Fonzy singing to the kangaroo tail microphone and the tail being scolded to get the hair off before it is covered with coles to cook.
And now the work part begins. Joanne has commenced work as the cook in the Nursing home and I began cleaning and painting the residents rooms, carrying out some handyman tasks and of course enjoying a few walks up to the lookout.
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